Happy St. Patrick’s Day!🍀This is the day when everyone magically turns Irish. There’s green beer, corned beef and cabbage, local parades, and pub crawls. All in the name of celebrating St. Patrick, the patron saint of Ireland. Fun fact: St. Patrick was a 5th-century Christian missionary credited with spreading Christianity across Ireland. Ironically, he wasn’t even Irish! He was a Roman Briton kidnapped by Irish raiders. The first St. Patrick’s Day celebration was in St. Augustine, Florida, in 1601. While St. Patrick’s Day is celebrated in Ireland, it’s usually more family-oriented, with church visits and feasting on Irish Stew, Lamb, or Bacon (the Irish version) with colcannon and soda bread. Corned beef on St. Paddy’s Day is an American twist, as early Irish immigrants found corned beef to be a more affordable alternative to Irish bacon.
I’ve always had a thing for Irish culture. Maybe it’s the 8.5% Irish DNA I’ve got, according to genealogy. I’ve known a few girls who were amazing Irish dancers. The work they put in is impressive. Growing up, many of my friends with Irish ancestry would receive claddagh rings, which I always found so beautiful. And some Irish music is so beautiful, it makes me weep. So, when my two college friends invited me to Ireland for a 10-day guided tour last year, I jumped at the chance. I knew it would be an AMAZING experience. We started and ended our trip in Dublin, traveling the entire coast of Ireland by motor coach. It was tiring but so worth it.
Arrival Day – I drove from my home in PA to my friend Lisa’s house in NJ. I left my car at her house, and we took an Uber to the airport. Our friend Nicole, who lives in central PA, met us at the airport in Dublin. By the time we landed, we were exhausted but had to adjust to local time and beat the jet lag. My taxi driver was a very large Irishman named Tiny (I giggled to myself because it felt like I was in a Guy Ritchie film). Once we got to our hotel, we dropped our bags and went off to explore. We walked down to Dublin Castle, got our bearings, and strolled through the grounds of Trinity College, home of the Book of Kells. We checked out some shops in the city center, then headed back to the hotel for lunch, a shower, and some relaxation. We ended the day with a drink at the famous Temple Bar and some authentic Irish Boxty for dinner at The Boxty House, recommended by a friend.
Day 1 – Since we didn’t have to meet our tour group until later, we had a leisurely morning at the hotel and then headed to Kilmainham Gaol (Jail), a historic former prison in Dublin. It played a significant role in Irish history, particularly during the country’s struggle for independence. We explored the cells, the chapel, and the haunting Stonebreaker’s Yard, where executions took place. The museum provided insights into Ireland’s political and social history, which I found fascinating. After the tour, we headed back to our hotel for lunch and rest before meeting our tour group.
Later that afternoon, we met our tour guide, Tony, and about 40 people who would be our travel companions for the next 10 days. The tour kicked off with a “windshield tour” around Dublin City on our motor coach. A local guide pointed out significant locations while Tony drove. We stopped at Teeling Whiskey Distillery for a tour and sampled the only whiskey still made in Dublin City. We ended the day with a Welcome Drink with our tour group and then headed out for some yummy dinner and my new fave, Bulmer’s Hard Cider. We needed to be packed up and ready to depart the next day for our epic road trip!
Day 2 – We rolled out from our Dublin hotel at 8 am, headed for County Wicklow. This was my first opportunity to see the Irish countryside, which I fell in love with. I can’t explain it, but have you ever traveled somewhere and just felt at ease? Not just relaxed, but like your soul was at peace. Yup, that’s how I felt as we left the city. The green grass, the sheep, the small towns, random castles…it was so much to take in.
When we reached our first destination, Glendalough, I was in awe. Glendalough means “Valley of Two Lakes” in Irish, and it’s a stunning glacial valley known for its breathtaking natural beauty and historical significance. The monastery was founded in the 6th century by St. Kevin, a hermit monk who sought solitude in the valley. It became a thriving religious community and a center of learning and pilgrimage. Now, what’s left are some fascinating ruins, like the round tower and various churches, but the views were some of the most beautiful I have ever seen. It was a very special place to reflect and disappear from the modern world for a few minutes.
After leaving Glendalough, we stopped for lunch in the village of Clonroche, where I had my first authentic Shepherd’s Pie, a favorite dish of mine. One thing that stood out to me about Ireland is the quality of their food. They use the freshest ingredients, and you can taste it. My body quickly adapted to this and appreciated it.
Our next stop was in County Wexford, where we headed to the village of New Ross to see a replica of the Dunbrody Famine Ship. This ship carried Irish immigrants from this location to North America during the 19th century. We heard stories of actual passengers on the ship and learned of the many locations they ended up in, like Georgia, New York, and Massachusetts. There is also an eternal Emigrant Flame that burns in front of the museum to honor all who made the voyage. The flame is a nod to JFK, who had ancestral ties to the town. We ended the tour day with a trip to the Waterford Crystal showroom for some shopping, followed by a walking tour of Waterford. The town is steeped in history, as Ireland’s oldest established city and the place where the first tri-color Irish flag was flown. We checked into our hotel, had some dinner, and then headed out to the pub for some music!
Day 3 – After waking up in Waterford, we had breakfast (check out my social media posts about the Waterford Blaa) and headed back to Waterford Crystal, but this time, we were headed to the factory tour. It was amazing to watch the artisans at work. It was also pretty special to meet one of the only two women who work on the floor, creating crystal masterpieces. This experience made me get my Waterford crystal out of my cabinet and start using it because the artistry put into the pieces should not go to waste! After our tour, we were back on the road to Cobh. I had never heard of this little village before but was intrigued to learn that this was Titanic’s final port, where 123 passengers boarded the ship heading for America. Only 44 of those passengers survived. The town does a beautiful job of memorializing the tragedy. One day, I want to get back there when I have more time to visit the stunning church that sits on a hill overlooking the sea.
Our next stop took us to County Cork to the famous Blarney Castle, home of the Blarney Stone! I had no interest in being held upside down to kiss a rock that is supposed to give me the gift of gab. No thank you! But the castle grounds were so cool. From the Murder Hole in the castle to the Poison Garden and the gorgeous views, I’d go back there anytime. Probably my favorite thing was being high up in the castle and watching cattle graze off in the distance. After a few hours at Blarney, it was time to hop back on the motor coach and head to Killarney, one of my favorite destinations! After checking into our hotel, we had a delicious dinner before heading out for one of the most fun nights! We went pub hopping, drank a lot of Guinness, and listened to some great music. But we knew we had to act responsibly because who wants to be hungover on the bus? Besides, The Ring of Kerry was our next adventure, and I wanted to be fully present for it.
Day 4 – The Ring of Kerry is 111 miles of ridiculously scenic views along the coastline and through the mountains. We started near the Gap of Dunloe, where we stopped at the famous Moriarty’s Authentic Irish Gift Shop. I purchased my very own Claddagh ring, and the center heart is made of Connemara Marble, which is found exclusively in County Galway. Next, we headed out to the Dingle Peninsula, got a view of Skellig Michael, a UNESCO World Heritage Site and a filming location of Star Wars, the little village of Sneem, where we got 99’s (delicious Irish ice cream with shaved chocolate), and beautiful beaches. I also had my first Cod Pie (delicious, by the way) in the town of Waterville, where the famous Charlie Chaplin had a home. If I could, I’d have a home there, too! After a full day of driving, we headed back to the hotel. I was in search of a good coffee, and I definitely found it. What I also found was that the city of Killarney outlawed the use of single-use coffee cups. You either had to bring your own or rent a reusable cup. Because I would be checking out of my hotel the next day before the coffee shop opened, I was allowed to return my cup to the front desk, and the hotel gave me my cup deposit back. How genius is that??? We had dinner and called it an early night.
Day 5 – We departed Killarney and headed up to County Limerick to catch the ferry across the River Shannon. This was exciting for me, as I’d never been on a ferry with vehicles. It was a little stressful pulling onto that ferry on a giant motor coach, but once we were on the boat, we were able to get out and take in the views. Once on the other side of the river in County Clare, we headed to the Cliffs of Moher. I can’t even put into words what an experience that was! We were concerned about the views because, in true Irish fashion, it was miserably cloudy and foggy. But…like a miracle, the clouds moved out as our bus climbed the road to the cliffs. To say that the views were breathtaking is a massive understatement. I spent much of my time there just standing at the cliffs, listening to the waves crash beneath. O’Brien’s Tower gave the best views of the cliffs, the islands, and the sea. Some of my favorite photos and videos from my trip are from the cliffs. After we departed the Cliffs of Moher, we stopped in the adorable town of Doolin for lunch, where I had some delicious fish and chips. Then we continued our drive to Galway, where we briefly explored the town and then checked into our hotel for the evening. We had a nice, quiet night with dinner at the hotel and then some drinks in the courtyard with some of our new friends.
Day 6 – We were up and, on the road, early, departing for Galway and headed for the Knock Shrine in County Mayo. While this was yet another place I had not heard of, I was stunned by this Shrine. I am not religious, but I was intrigued by the story of the Virgin Mary appearing on the wall of the parish church back in 1879. Whether you are a believer or not, you cannot deny the beauty and peace of this church. I was overcome with emotion when I walked into the sanctuary. The murals and the grounds are spectacular. One woman from our group openly wept because she thought she would never get to the Shrine in her lifetime. It was such a moving experience. We traveled through the Irish countryside to County Sligo to a Sheepdog farm. It was so cool to see Sheepdogs and how they work. It was also amazing to see the adorable lambs and learn about the history and importance of sheep and working Sheepdogs in Ireland. Did you know that most of the wool shorn from the sheep is thrown away? It would actually cost more to create textiles from the wool than it’s worth. It’s a shame, but I hope someone finds a way to change that.
After our time in County Sligo, we traveled to the town of Donegal for lunch and some quick exploration of the town. We stopped at a little convenience store and loaded up on Irish junk food. I am a fan of their chocolate and their Salt & Vinegar Crisps (potato chips)! Once back on the motor coach, we traveled across the border to Northern Ireland. There was little fanfare with this border crossing…no toll, no stop sign, no guards. We just drove across a bridge…far different from crossing this border years ago. Just like that, we were in Derry. A local guide came on board, and we drove to the city wall, where we could overlook where so much conflict took place. We did a “windshield tour” through the city to see all the powerful and beautiful murals. And this is where I discovered the show “Derry Girls.” We arrived at the hotel, had dinner, a few bevvies, and got some much-needed sleep. The exhaustion was starting to catch up with me.
Day 7 – This was our last full day as a tour group. By this time, we’d become fond of each other and like a little family. We boarded our bus and headed down the Irish coast for our last day together. We traveled to Giant’s Causeway, another site that is hard to put into words. Giant’s Causeway is another UNESCO World Heritage site in County Antrim, Northern Ireland. It’s famous for the unique hexagonal basalt columns that were formed 60 million years ago by volcanic activity or mythical legend, depending on who you believe. In addition to the stunning views, there are sensitive wildlife habitats here that you won’t find anywhere else in the world.
We rounded out our afternoon with a visit to Titanic Belfast. This museum sits at the very site where the Titanic was designed, built, and launched. In fact, the building is designed to resemble the hull of the Titanic, matching the actual height of the ship. Exhibits cover the history of Titanic, from its design to its sinking and the aftermath. Some of the most memorable moments for me were seeing the wall of names of all the victims, the witness testimonies, and learning how this tragedy influenced changes in maritime law around the world. It was an experience that taught me a lot.
After leaving Titanic Belfast, we headed to our final stop on our way back to Dublin; back to County Louth for dinner in Annagassan. We ate at The Glyde Inn, a restaurant overlooking the Irish Sea. We enjoyed Irish Stew and Guinness while listening to a quartet of Irish musicians. It was the perfect ending to our formal tour. With full bellies and full hearts, we got back onto the motor coach for the last time. Once back in Dublin, we checked into our last hotel, said goodbye to Tony, the best tour guide ever, and our 40 or so friends from all over the world. We had a celebratory glass of Prosecco and a few pints to cap off our last tour day.
Day 8 – After a good night’s sleep, we dragged our exhausted selves to the Guinness Storehouse at St. James Gate because one MUST go here when in Dublin. We toured the museum, which includes a few opportunities to sip on my new favorite beverage. The tour caps off with a cold draft Guinness in a sky lounge, overlooking the city. It was a great place for deep conversation and some reflection on our trip. After purchasing some swag in the gift shop, we walked over to Fish Shop, which was highly recommended by a friend. Good thing I made a reservation because the place was super small, and many were turned away. I had my final, and best, serving of fish and chips, along with Prosecco and some AMAZING oysters on the half shell. We dragged ourselves back to the city center to get on the Hop On/Hop Off bus. Honestly, if it weren’t included in our package, we would pack for the final time and get ready for the journey home. We had dinner at the hotel and bumped into some friends from our tour. We had some drinks and said our final goodbyes.
Day 9 – We were up before the sun to head to the airport and back to reality. It was a long, exhausting, exhilarating trip. I cannot wait to go back to Ireland and bring my husband and children. The people, the culture, the beauty are all things that one must experience to understand. And the food and drink were amazing. If you get the chance to go, please do. It was the trip that I never knew I needed! Until next time…
